Posts Tagged ‘privateer press’

Karchev and Friends

I love playing Warmachine, but when it comes to collecting, I’m several expansions and dozens of models behind.  It occurred to me the other day that I essentially stopped collecting around Superiority.  I don’t own cavalry, plastic ‘jacks, Harkevich, or the upgrade kits.  I don’t even own a Behemoth.  Let’s face it, miniatures are expensive.  I don’t often buy miniatures simply because I can’t afford to.  I’ve made some lucky trades, which is how I acquired the battlegroup up there – the result of trading a bunch of old Warhammer bitz and figures and two Magic the Gathering dual lands.  I think the last miniature I actually bought was Zerkova, sometime last fall.

From that standpoint, when it comes to building lists(and playing games in general) I mostly just try to have fun.  I use the models I like, and if they’re not the most broken ones out there, that’s ok.  Khador is a great infantry faction, but even there I’m a bit lacking.  I have the Winterguard deathstar, with a single rocketeer.  I have minimum Iron Fangs plus UA.  I own the Great Bears(got them a few years ago at 50% off).  I own a full unit of Demo Corps.  But no Kayazy, no Rifle Corps, no Nyss Hunters, no Shocktroopers…. A list for me often does comes down to just a few choices, and many of them look similar.  Eventually I’ll expand what I have, but for now I’m mostly ok.  I haven’t even played a game in ages, because I don’t like going to the LGS when I can’t afford anything.  I feel that if you’re getting to hang out in a game store and play Warmachine for 5 hours you should at least buy a solo or a few cups of coffee or whatever.  (Our LGS has a cafe and does coffee, sandwiches, etc.  It rocks.)  So rather than freeloading, I’d rather stay home and paint some of the bare metal I still have laying around.

Back to lists, though – I play what I like, and that’s totally cool.  I can’t wait to play Karchev some more, even if I don’t have any mechanics as support.  I like playing the Butchers, because they kill stuff dead.  The Old Witch can be ridiculously mean, and even Zerkova has her tricks.  For me, it really is true that switching warcasters changes the entire game.  I’m glad I have that option, and that I own a variety of casters that I can use.  Khador is a really fun faction, and thankfully my LGS isn’t saturated with Khador players like I know some places are.  We have a pretty mix of factions, from what I remember, and a number of good Hordes players as well.  I’m not a hugely competitive player, so I do lose a lot.  Again, that’s ok because I know eventually, once I can get more games in, I’ll become a better player.  And even when I do lose, I still have fun.  My favorite games are the close ones, where it comes down to just a few models left on the board on each side, and it’s literally one die roll that determines the win.  Those are the best.

I think my whole point here(and I did say that it was a ramble) is that for me personally, list-building is often about how much I have in the game, and not necessarily about how many über models I can fit in there.  That’s not to say that I don’t use competitive units, but I also won’t handicap myself deliberately by taking sub-par units.  It’s different for each person.  I don’t take too much time when I make lists – again, limited selection – and I include stuff that I like seeing on the tabletop.  A few fun games last year came down to a Devastator with Rage tokens from eButcher trying to pull off a caster kill(didn’t work).  It’s stuff like that that I really enjoy.

Lastly, on miniatures and transporting them: my homemade carrying case is falling apart, and I could really use a new transport.  I’m looking at Portable Warfare, because they’re the only company so far that I’ve seen making a bright orange transport bag.  You won’t ever misplace that sucker.  It’s bright freaking orange.  So I’m trying to save up for that, and I’ve started a ChipIn for it. It’s a little fundraiser thing, where people can donate.  You can find it here. I’ve got an Etsy shop where I sell dice bags and such, and you can use the coupon code THNXMUCH for 15% off your order. I’d much prefer to sell a few dice bags, so please spread the word, and pass the coupon code along too!

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Finally finished Beast-09, at least to a degree where I’m comfortable fielding him on the table.  The base needs snow and static grass, and a couple minor details need doing, but otherwise he’s done.  I decided to go with a similar color scheme to my Zerkova theme force, which means lots of Cryx Bane Highlight, high lit/shaded with Hammerfall Khaki and Thornwood Green.  The metals were Boltgun Metal, heavily shaded/washed with Devlan Mud and thinned Bloodstone.  Fun model to put together, I enjoyed it.

 

 

On a related note, here’s the transport bag I’m using right now.  High time to get a new one, I think….

 

 

 

 

I started work on my Beast-09 a few days ago, after tons of inner debate on how I wanted to pose him.  I’m still not entirely sure about the posing the arms will take, but I got his legs and base done tonight.

 

This will be the base.  I wanted Beast standing with a leg up on a slightly raised edge, both to give him extra height and to make him look more menacing.  The base here is cork with plasticard layered on top.  The idea is that it’s a concrete/shale slab that’s cracked.

 

 

This is the position the legs will take.  No glue, no pins, just the legs standing flat on the plasticard.  I’ve cut off and filed down the pegs on the bottoms of the feet.  Initially I planned to pin one of both feet.

 

 

And here is the final position of legs+waist on the base.  I used green stuff in the peg-holes, and made sure to position both feet flat on the card of the base.  The green stuff will be curing overnight.  Instead of pinning the feet, I glued them down so that the green stuff will be in the position I want it to cure in.  I’m hoping that the final model will be stable enough to stand without pins, especially once the cork is glued to the actual base.  Here I’m using a Games Workshop monster base as a square platform for the cork to rest on.  Previously I used a pencil to trace the inner circle of the 50mm Privateer Press base onto the monster base, so I can easily tell where the edges are, to avoid too much cork overhang.  (Hint: the outside edge of a Privateer Press 40mm base fits perfectly into the inner ring of a 50mm base.)

 

 

This is the first model in a very long time that I’ve started putting together before priming/painting.  I’m curious to see how well it goes, since I’m so used to doing everything in pieces and then glueing at the very end.  Originally I wasn’t planning on glueing the legs to the card, but wanted to make sure that the legs stayed flat while the green stuff epoxy cures.

That’s it for this update.  Thanks for reading!

I painted him to match my Zerkova, which was fun since I ended up really liking the scheme.  Additional battle damage/wear was done largely with thinned down Bloodstone, and I stippled it on in places as well.  The base was done after I saw the “concrete basing” preview for the latest No Quarter magazine, and I kept the slate-like look because I liked it so much, rather than going for a more concrete-like color.

 

 

On a random note, Spriggans are a pain in the butt to photograph, thanks to the way the carapace slopes at the front.  I tried my best, though.

I’ve been making my crooked houses for a while now, and a bit of encouragement prompted me to try writing up a tutorial for them.   I originally got the idea for the houses on the Privateer Press forums, the old ones that have been shut down for a long time now.  I don’t remember who made them originally, but his work was really wonderful, and my best efforts so far haven’t topped his.  These are intended as terrain pieces for tabletop miniature wargames, although they would also work well in roleplaying games on a battle mat or something.  Prepare for a lot of pictures.

This is the picture that prompted the tutorial.

You can make the houses out of foamcore, though matte board also works really well.  Occasionally it will be on sale at Hobby Lobby for $4 for a huge sheet.  Grab one or two.  For the glue I use Aleen’s Tacky Glue, which is a white glue similar to Elmer’s, but thicker consistency.  Superglue is also helpful for certain steps.  I cut my pieces out on one of those green cutting mats.  If you have a 40% off coupon for Hobby Lobby, you can get them pretty cheap.  I use x-acto knives to do all my cutting, and you should be prepared to have extra blades on hand because cutting matte board dulls them really quickly.  Painter’s tape helps keep pieces together until the glue dries.

I think it’s important to have a template for your pieces, so that you don’t end up wasting material.  Take a few minutes with a ruler and some graph paper to plan out a design.  Remember that these are in 3 dimensions, so if you have an overhanging second floor, you also need a piece that acts as a floor.  I used Bristol paper in this tutorial for my template pieces, as well as for the roof tiles you’ll see later.

The template pieces for this house design.

I’m making a simpler house in this tutorial than the one pictured above with the grey roof.  Basics first, right?

The pieces all cut out. The small squares are extra.

The house is simple, and starts with 4 pieces.  Two end pieces with a peak for the roof, and two side walls.  The small squares are extra, but can be glued inside the frame at the corners for a bit of extra stability.

Most of the frame glued.  I use the blue painter’s tape to hold  the pieces together while the glue dries.  Note that the side walls are glued just inside the end piece.

The tape helps hold stuff together.

The frame, ready for the roof.

This is the frame, glued and ready to add the roof.  The Aleen’s Tacky Glue takes some time to dry, so it’s best to go off for a bit to watch a few tv shows or something until the frame is ready to be handled.  In the next steps, you’ll see the edging on the frame.  I did this with matte board, cut into rectangular strips.  Each one is carefully marked, cut, and then glued to the frame.  They’ll be painted to look like wood.  In this part of the tutorial I’m skipping this step, because it’s more aesthetic than anything else.  I will cover that in Part 2 of the tutorial, along with doors and windows.

For the roof I use cereal box card – it’s thin enough to bend and flex easily, and thick enough to provide some structure for the tiles.  In this example I’ve used a graham cracker box.  Pasta boxes, tissue boxes, macaroni and cheese boxes – all of these would work just as well.

This part of the roof is fitted very precisely onto the frame.  Begin by laying out the frame on your card, and marking the roof points as well as the side wall.

You’ll want a rectangle just big enough to fit onto the frame.  Fit the roof very carefully onto the frame, and mark the very edges.  This will also get cut down, to make the card stock into a very tight-fitting cap on the frame.  It will all get covered by tiles for the final house, so it’s important to fit the card as closely to the matte board frame as possible.  The next pictures will hopefully show this.

To get the sagging roof right, mark a straight line on your card, and then draw an oval on it.  The oval gets cut out, and the edges will get taped together to form the sag in the roof.

The oval section that will be cut out for the sag.

The roof taped down and cut closely to fit the frame.

The sagging section taped down, and the roof taped to the frame.

The house is starting to look more like a house.  Tape helps immensely in this section to keep everything together.  Again, the glue needs time to dry.

Next are the tiles.  They can be done using the same card as the roof, but here I’ve used Bristol paper again, and I think I prefer that.  It’s easy to cut with some scissors.  I mark a rectangular strip measuring 1/2″ wide, and cut that into individual tiles using scissors.  The tiles should overhang the edge of the roof by just a tiny bit.  I glue them down in rows, doing a row on each side before doing the second row atop the first.  Start from the bottom and work up, to overlap your tiles.

The first row of tiles.

Row 2.

Four rows done.

A word on chimneys:  I made mine using a wide straw, cut down and fitted into a piece of Bristol that’s had an oval cut out of it, using the straw mouth as a template.  Ideally it will look like a metal pipe when it’s painted and done.  You can do other options, but I chose to use this one for the tutorial.  The next few images show the chimney and the process of tiling around it.  This was glued down with superglue.

For the tiles that cover the roof’s edge, you’ll want to cut slightly bigger rectangles.  I glue these down with superglue, because it’s much faster than holding each tile in place while the Aleen’s glue dries.  You can bend them in half just a bit to get them fitted onto the roof without leaving sharp creases.

The roof's top edge.

The roof is almost done in the above picture.  Laying down the tiles can be done while watching tv, it’s a simple process that just takes time.  The tiles on the edges stick over the frame just a bit, about 1/8″ in most cases.

That’s it for part 1 – I’ll try to put up part 2 in the next day or so.