Posts Tagged ‘hordes’

Circle Orboros Inspired Dice Bag

Pattern is based on the runes that Circle Orboros warlocks show when casting spells.


Last night I got a chance to attend an evening Warmachine tournament at Giga-bites, my local store.  The tournament started at 6pm, with 2 35-point lists.  I chose to play Circle, and brought pKrueger and Kromac as my warlocks.


First game: vs. Retribution

The scenario here was with two flags on the table, and my opponent had a lot of high-armor infantry.  I made the mistake of clumping up too much on the left side of my deployment zone, getting in my own way, and hampering my efforts.  Unfortunately, Pow 10 lightning doesn’t do much against ARM 18-20 troops, and  the game ended after an ill-fated assassination attempt with Krueger went awry,  and Vyros took him down.

Result:  Loss


Second Game: vs Khador

Three flags set up along the center line of the table, with one flag disappearing after the first few turns.  My opponent was playing pButcher with WG Rifle Corps, a lot of Widowmakers/snipers(Kell, Eyriss, Widowmaker Marksman).  The list included a Destroyer, Black Ivan, and a mortar as well.

Once again I chose Krueger.  This time it was my opponent who made the mistake of clumping, to some degree.  His deployment zone had a wall very close by, so he chose to move the warjacks and mortar behind the wall, with the WG just to the left, lined up in formation between wall and a forest.  I was able to run my Bloodweavers up to engage the Rifle Corps, keeping them in place while I advanced with other units.  My druids took on the Widomakers, killing a number of snipers over the next few turns, but losing several of their own as well.  I was able to get two objective points, and my opponent left Butcher standing in charge range of a Feral Warpwolf after losing most of the Rifle Corps to Bloodweaver freestrikes and Chain Lightning.  The Feral unfortunately failed to kill a focus-camped Butcher, and died the next turn.  The bombards and mortar took their shots at Krueger, and he survived due to a lot of misses/drifted aoe’s. The Destroyer had moved over the wall in an attempt to block charge lanes to Butcher.

In my last turn, I was able to use the surviving druids to pull the Destroyer out of Krueger’s way.  My Woldwarden moved up to Geomancy Chain Lightning into Butcher, and then Krueger charged for the kill.

Result:  Win, 2 Control Points

Third Game: vs. Cryx

I was facing pAsphyxious, with Soulhunters, Bloodgorgers, and Blood Witches.  I think my mistake here was to try my Kromac list, instead of keeping Krueger and his Chain Lightning.

The scenario called for two zones on the table that were to be controlled for points.  His first turn, my opponent ran everything in his army up the table, and I was left facing an intimidating wall of models to take down/budge from the zones.  I made another mistake in letting the blood witches run to engage my Warpwolves, keeping me from contesting the closest zone through bodies.  My opponent actually won through control points, by literally keeping me out of the zones that had to be contested.  A well-played game, but I think I could have done better.  Lessons learned…

Result: Loss through control points


Fourth Game: vs Trollbloods

I was facing a Madrak brick, and again chose the wrong list I think.  Here I should have stuck with Kromac, and a berserking Stalker would have enormously useful.  Instead I went with Krueger, who had trouble breaking armor.  I ended up getting slowly taken apart piecemeal, and Krueger died a reluctant death after my opponent spent two turns trying to take him down.

Result:  Loss


The game ended a bit after midnight, and I ended up receiving the Circle Faction patch – I was one of two Circle players, and I believe that I had a slightly better record than the other player.  The tournament was a lot of fun, and I’m really looking forward to playing more games and becoming a better player.  Until moving to Atlanta, I had only played casually, and in our meta we have a lot of very, very good players, many of whom regularly attend convention tournaments and take top places.


The faction patch is currently gracing my transport bag:




All it took was one conversation, and suddenly I’m back playing Circle Orboros. I’ve always liked my dirty hippie druids, but I’ve never actually explored any of their constructs with the exception of a single Woldwarden and two Woldwyrds. I don’t own either of the Baldur models, and I’d love to change that.

With the October 24th release of the Woldwrath, the Circle Gargantuan, I decided that maybe it was time to do something about my lack of experience with constructs. I love the hobby, but I don’t have a big budget for miniatures. I decided that I’d start an Indiegogo campaign, and add a construct blog where I discuss painting techniques, assembly, and various list-building thoughts as well as battle reports.

As perks I have a variety of Greyed Out dice bags, and I’ll be coming up with some cool construct-related logos as well. Since it’s a crowd-funding effort, I’ll be taking a poll on what colors to paint the Woldwrath and all the constructs in the project. I’m going to be doing a lot of research to find various types of stone that would look great on Circle Orboros constructs.

The People’s Constructs Campaign went live yesterday on Indiegogo; I actually wanted to set the funding goal much lower, but apparently IndieGogo has a $500 minimum.

One of the big things I’d love to do with this campaign is support my FLAGS(friendly local awesome game store) rather than going to a giant internet retailer. It’s important to spend locally to keep great businesses in the community, and I think that game stores are where many people first get introduced to the hobby.

Please spread word of The People’s Constructs Campaign; I’d love to make this an incredible gaming and hobby experience, and hopefully bring something awesome to the Warmahordes community.

I had a chance to make it out to a Warmachine tournament today at Giga-bites Cafe in Marietta. It was run by the local pressganger, and was a blast. Since it was a Halloween tournament, we had special scenarios for each game that were based around Halloween.

We ended up going four rounds, so it was a long tournament. I played Circle Orboros with the following list:

Kromac the Ravenous
Feral Warpwolf
Feral Warpwolf
Pureblood Warpwolf

Shifting Stones
Tharn Bloodweavers
Druid Stoneward and Woldstalkers

Round 1:
Played against Khador, a Harkevich list. Several warjacks, Winterguard, mortars.  The scenario was “Aww, do I have to take him along?”.  Basically, your warcaster/lock got a younger sibling that had to be taken to the 8″ diameter pumpkin patch in the center of the table.  Victory points were assigned for each turn that your sibling was in the patch.  He was a smaller version of the warcaster, with 10hp, half the focus/fury, two spells, etc.

I ended up winning when I killed Harkevich with Kromac in melee.


Round 2:

Khador again, an epic Sorscha Winterguard list featuring Conquest.  The scenario was Trick or Treating – 9 flag markers spaced around the board had to be collected, and the first player to get 5 won.   Each time a flag got collected, a roll was made on a table, with a variety of different effects based on the roll.

I ended up losting to caster kill.


Round 3:

More Khador, another Harkevich list.  The scenario here had two tombs on the table, one on each player’s side.  They had ARM 22, 40hp, and popped out incorporeal ghosts each turn that could be moved by the players.  To win you had to destroy your opponent’s tomb.

I was sure I was going to lose when my opponent started sending bombard shots from Destroyers and Black Ivan to the tomb, whittling down its hit points.  However, I underestimated the speed of my own warpwolves, who ran in and saved the day.  Number of attacks won out, and I destroyed my enemy’s tomb with 7hp left on my own.

Round 4:

Played against Cygnar, in the Trick or Treat scenario.  A newer player, who didn’t have a great list and seemed to still be learning a lot of the rules.  I ended up winning by killing pStryker with Woldstalkers.


Overall I placed 4th in the tourney, which makes me happy.

Continuation of my previous tutorial.  Here I’m covering briefly how to do the house’s edging and frame pieces, and a bit of the painting process.


While this can also be done with balsa wood strips, here I used pieces of matte board cut into rectangular strips.  Simply cut to fit the edge of each section of the house, and then glue them down.  It’s important to get the angles as close as possible for a tight fit, especially in places like the cross bar above.


A view of the side pieces.



For this section the easiest way to get the right curve on your pieces is to take the template you’ve made and trace out the roof curve on paper to make a template for the curved pieces seen above.  I hope that makes sense, it sounds a bit complicated but it’s really not.

The little piece sticking out at the very top of the roof is a section of bass wood cut at a slight angle and glued on with superglue.

The house's door.

The front door is a piece of balsa wood, cut down into a door-like section and glued down.  Do this first, and then make the frame with thin section of matte board or, in this case, more bass wood.


Toothpicks!  These fancy toothpicks are cheap, and the ends make great doorknobs and window hinges.  Just take your craft knife and carefully slice off the tips of the toothpicks.

The window is made the same way as the door.


Those cheap acrylic craft paints from Hobby Lobby or Michael’s are great for painting terrain projects.  They usually run about $1-2 per bottle, and you get a ton of paint in each.  I have six or seven bottles in various browns, greys, etc that I use for these kinds of projects.

Coat 1 on the roof.

The roof will take multiple coats of paint, since reds are generally finicky.  This is a mix of red and a lighter grey.  For the house walls, I’m using a tan brown, which I’ll weather later. The trim will be painted in a black/grey shade.

The front of the house in brown.


And here is the house with the roof finished.



Right now the chimney still needs painting, as does the trim.  The house will also get some weathering to make it look more worn and lived in.  But that’s the basics of the tutorial.  The same principles can be applied to other types and shapes of houses as well.

Finally, this is the original house template that I downloaded years and years ago, when I first found the tutorial for these houses on the Privateer Press forums.  It prints out pretty well on a regular sheet of paper.


I’ve been making my crooked houses for a while now, and a bit of encouragement prompted me to try writing up a tutorial for them.   I originally got the idea for the houses on the Privateer Press forums, the old ones that have been shut down for a long time now.  I don’t remember who made them originally, but his work was really wonderful, and my best efforts so far haven’t topped his.  These are intended as terrain pieces for tabletop miniature wargames, although they would also work well in roleplaying games on a battle mat or something.  Prepare for a lot of pictures.

This is the picture that prompted the tutorial.

You can make the houses out of foamcore, though matte board also works really well.  Occasionally it will be on sale at Hobby Lobby for $4 for a huge sheet.  Grab one or two.  For the glue I use Aleen’s Tacky Glue, which is a white glue similar to Elmer’s, but thicker consistency.  Superglue is also helpful for certain steps.  I cut my pieces out on one of those green cutting mats.  If you have a 40% off coupon for Hobby Lobby, you can get them pretty cheap.  I use x-acto knives to do all my cutting, and you should be prepared to have extra blades on hand because cutting matte board dulls them really quickly.  Painter’s tape helps keep pieces together until the glue dries.

I think it’s important to have a template for your pieces, so that you don’t end up wasting material.  Take a few minutes with a ruler and some graph paper to plan out a design.  Remember that these are in 3 dimensions, so if you have an overhanging second floor, you also need a piece that acts as a floor.  I used Bristol paper in this tutorial for my template pieces, as well as for the roof tiles you’ll see later.

The template pieces for this house design.

I’m making a simpler house in this tutorial than the one pictured above with the grey roof.  Basics first, right?

The pieces all cut out. The small squares are extra.

The house is simple, and starts with 4 pieces.  Two end pieces with a peak for the roof, and two side walls.  The small squares are extra, but can be glued inside the frame at the corners for a bit of extra stability.

Most of the frame glued.  I use the blue painter’s tape to hold  the pieces together while the glue dries.  Note that the side walls are glued just inside the end piece.

The tape helps hold stuff together.

The frame, ready for the roof.

This is the frame, glued and ready to add the roof.  The Aleen’s Tacky Glue takes some time to dry, so it’s best to go off for a bit to watch a few tv shows or something until the frame is ready to be handled.  In the next steps, you’ll see the edging on the frame.  I did this with matte board, cut into rectangular strips.  Each one is carefully marked, cut, and then glued to the frame.  They’ll be painted to look like wood.  In this part of the tutorial I’m skipping this step, because it’s more aesthetic than anything else.  I will cover that in Part 2 of the tutorial, along with doors and windows.

For the roof I use cereal box card – it’s thin enough to bend and flex easily, and thick enough to provide some structure for the tiles.  In this example I’ve used a graham cracker box.  Pasta boxes, tissue boxes, macaroni and cheese boxes – all of these would work just as well.

This part of the roof is fitted very precisely onto the frame.  Begin by laying out the frame on your card, and marking the roof points as well as the side wall.

You’ll want a rectangle just big enough to fit onto the frame.  Fit the roof very carefully onto the frame, and mark the very edges.  This will also get cut down, to make the card stock into a very tight-fitting cap on the frame.  It will all get covered by tiles for the final house, so it’s important to fit the card as closely to the matte board frame as possible.  The next pictures will hopefully show this.

To get the sagging roof right, mark a straight line on your card, and then draw an oval on it.  The oval gets cut out, and the edges will get taped together to form the sag in the roof.

The oval section that will be cut out for the sag.

The roof taped down and cut closely to fit the frame.

The sagging section taped down, and the roof taped to the frame.

The house is starting to look more like a house.  Tape helps immensely in this section to keep everything together.  Again, the glue needs time to dry.

Next are the tiles.  They can be done using the same card as the roof, but here I’ve used Bristol paper again, and I think I prefer that.  It’s easy to cut with some scissors.  I mark a rectangular strip measuring 1/2″ wide, and cut that into individual tiles using scissors.  The tiles should overhang the edge of the roof by just a tiny bit.  I glue them down in rows, doing a row on each side before doing the second row atop the first.  Start from the bottom and work up, to overlap your tiles.

The first row of tiles.

Row 2.

Four rows done.

A word on chimneys:  I made mine using a wide straw, cut down and fitted into a piece of Bristol that’s had an oval cut out of it, using the straw mouth as a template.  Ideally it will look like a metal pipe when it’s painted and done.  You can do other options, but I chose to use this one for the tutorial.  The next few images show the chimney and the process of tiling around it.  This was glued down with superglue.

For the tiles that cover the roof’s edge, you’ll want to cut slightly bigger rectangles.  I glue these down with superglue, because it’s much faster than holding each tile in place while the Aleen’s glue dries.  You can bend them in half just a bit to get them fitted onto the roof without leaving sharp creases.

The roof's top edge.

The roof is almost done in the above picture.  Laying down the tiles can be done while watching tv, it’s a simple process that just takes time.  The tiles on the edges stick over the frame just a bit, about 1/8″ in most cases.

That’s it for part 1 – I’ll try to put up part 2 in the next day or so.


I’m going to be open for commissions again, starting today.  I paint miniatures, as well as sew.  For miniatures, I’ve been working on Privateer Press armies for the past few years, but also have experience doing Games Workshop miniatures.

Infantry squads are $35-$45 for 10 troopers

Warjacks and warbeasts are $25

Warcasters and warlocks are $25

Warhammer Fantasy and Warhammer 40,000 have similar pricing structures, varying on a unit-by-unit basis (Ogre Warriors vs. goblins vs. Tyranid Warriors, for example).

I can be reached via email at greylikestorms(at)gmail(dot)com, please feel free to email me to discuss commissions.  I’m also open to discounts for entire army commissions.


Some examples of recent work:



I’ve been playing miniature tabletop wargames since high school, which means that I have a good 15 years of gaming under my belt.  I started playing Warmachine in 2006, shortly before Superiority was released.  Miniature storage has always been one of those afterthoughts, because why spend money on an item to lug your miniatures around when you could buy more miniatures instead?

It’s only been in the last few years that I’ve begun thinking more about storage and transportation.  I have several pieces of Sabol foam, which serve well to hold about a third of my collection.  It’s just enough to carry a selection of my most-used Khador models to the game store, and since I know how to sew, I put together a very rough and tumble messenger-style bag to put the foam trays in.  The bag isn’t the greatest in the world, and I worry that one of these days it’s going to snap a shoulder strap and send a few hundred dollars worth of miniatures crashing into the concrete.

I’ve been eyeing the miniature transport bags that Portable Warfare makes ever since I first found out about them.  Their bag is called the Sergeant, and although I don’t own one, I’d like to talk a little bit about the bag.  Early last year, I had a brief email conversation with Chris Strecker from Portable Warfare.  I value great customer service, and Mr. Strecker was incredibly courteous and helpful in answering the questions I posed. Though there are other options in the market for miniature transport, I am inclined to put my faith in Portable Warfare thanks to that particular experience.

The Sergeant measures 12″Hx13″Wx7″ and comes in 4 colors: Gunmetal Gray, Army Green, Chaos Pink, and their newest color, Tactical Orange.  From the pictures on their website,, it looks as if the bag is made from a durable nylon material similar to the stuff used in hiking packs.  In addition to the main compartment meant for holding your foam trays, the bag has a front pocket for holding several rule books or card binders, and two velcro pockets in front of those.  The two sides of the bag have mesh for holding drinks.

Portable Warfare offers two different foam build-outs for the Sergeant, as well as offering the empty bag if you already have foam.  The empty bag is $40, and the two foam load-outs are $77 and $86, respectively.  Although as I said I have no personal experience with their bags, the Sergeant seems like it would be perfect for taking several army lists worth of miniatures to the local gaming store in safety.  13″ worth of foam should be enough to transport a generous selection of warjacks, infantry, and other miniatures for a fun night of gaming.

The Portable Warfare bags come with Blü Foam, if you don’t choose the empty option.  From what I understand, the foam has a more rigid bottom layer, making it a little easier to pull out of the storage bag.  I’m always worried when I lift my current foam trays out of my homemade bag that I’ll spill miniatures everywhere, because they do much better with two hands of support under them.  The $77 foam load out comes with more 2″ trays, while the $86 option has a lot of 1″ trays for infantry-heavy armies.

I haven’t been collecting many miniatures in the last few years, since money is tight, and that’s part of the reason I sewed my own transport bag – two yards of fabric was easier to justify than a transport bag – although I have to say that out of the available options out there right now, Portable Warfare’s product seems like the best choice available, and I can’t wait until I can pick up one of my own.  The Tactical Orange in particular seems like a great option, because with a bag that color, you will never misplace it.

One of my hobbies is tabletop miniature wargaming.  It’s a little bit like chess, or historical wargaming, except that it uses little pewter miniatures to represent fantasy warriors like knights, fierce beasts like giant werewolves, and giant, steam-powered, magic-controlled robots.  The miniatures come unpainted and unassembled, and putting them together and painting them has always been one of the highlights of the hobby for me.  While some may see it as an expensive hobby, it can be cheaper to pick up a new miniature than to spend a night out drinking with friends.  Budgeting helps, as well.

When I moved to Atlanta, one of the first things I looked for was a friendly local game store(FLGS) to play at.  The game I play is Warmachine, by Privateer Press, and my search online quickly led me to Giga-Bites Cafe in Marietta, just to the northwest of Atlanta.  I stopped in with my fiancee several weeks after arriving in Atlanta to take a look around and see what the store has to offer, and was very impressed.

The store is a long rectangle, leading back from the front door.  To your right as you enter is the cafe section – yes, the cafe.   Owner David Finn had a brilliant idea, and the store serves food and drinks as well as being able to sell you the latest miniature.  The cafe features a variety of coffee drinks and smoothies, as well as sandwiches and paninis, and David knows his way around the espresso machines.  On the left are racks upon racks of miniatures mounted on the wall – everything from Warhammer 40,000 to Warmachine to Firestorm Armada and Flames of War.  The center of the space has large tables meant for playing those miniature games on, and on any given night you can find a number of gamers rolling dice and moving their miniature soldiers around.

At Giga-Bites, certain days of the week are reserved for certain games – that is to say, there are many varieties of tabletop wargame, and on certain days, preference for table space is given to players of those games.  Thursday night, for example, is Warmachine and Hordes night.  That doesn’t mean that players of other games will get kicked out; the store is incredibly fun to hang out at, and everyone I have met so far has been super friendly.  On my first day there I was quickly welcomed, and had a chance to play several games over the course of the night.

The store is a friendly and welcoming place to play, and the hours of operation reflect the hobby – the store is often open until 11pm, and tournaments on the weekends can run all day.  If you need a miniature that isn’t on the shelves, the salesperson will be happy to order it for you, and orders generally arrive within a week.  The store also has a “Rolling Bones” club – members pay $15/year and receive a 10% discount on all purchases – worth it if you plan to spend a good amount on your hobby.

I’ve found through over a decade of being in this hobby – miniature tabletop games – that most gamers are friendly and welcoming people, and it’s wonderful knowing that there is a safe place to play games to your heart’s content and indulge in your hobby with likeminded people.  Giga-Bites is certainly a shining example of the FLGS, and I’m glad to call it the place where I play.